Refrigerated (reefer) containers
Refrigerated Containers for Sale
Compare refrigerated shipping containers — “reefers” — from a nationwide network of verified suppliers. ContainerMondo helps you match the right unit, power setup, and price to your job, then connects you with local sellers for free, no-obligation quotes.
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What a refrigerated container actually is
A refrigerated container is a steel shipping container with an integrated refrigeration unit built into one end. It doesn’t just keep the cold in — it actively makes cold, running a set temperature anywhere from deep-freeze to chilled. That machine is the single most important part of the unit, and it’s where most of the value (and most of the buying decisions) live.
“Refrigerated” is not the same as “insulated”
An insulated container has foam-lined walls but no machine — it only slows how fast the temperature changes. A refrigerated container has the same insulation plus a cooling unit that holds a set temperature. If you need to reach and keep a target temperature, you need a reefer. If you only need to buffer heat, an insulated box may do the job for less. More on that below.
Know the difference
Do you need cooling, or just insulation?
This is the first fork in the road, and getting it right can save you thousands. Working reefers cost more to buy and more to run. If your goods don’t need an actively controlled temperature, a cheaper insulated box — or a non-operating reefer used as one — may be all you need.
- Choose a reefer when you must hold a set temperature — frozen, chilled, or climate-controlled.
- Insulated is enough when you only need to slow heat — a cool store, dry goods, or shade-plus-buffer.
- No temperature control at all? A standard container is the most affordable option.
How it works
How a reefer keeps its cool
The refrigeration unit blows chilled air under the floor, not straight at the cargo. Air rises up through a grooved “T-bar” floor, wraps around the load, and returns along the ceiling to the unit — a constant loop that keeps every box at the same temperature.
Air-delivery runs bottom-up: the unit pushes chilled air beneath the T-bar floor, it rises through the load, then returns along the ceiling. That’s why airflow — not just temperature setting — matters when you load a reefer.
The part most buyers miss
How will you power it?
A working reefer’s machinery almost always runs on three-phase power (commonly around 460 volts, 60 Hz in the U.S.) — not the single-phase supply in a typical home or small shop. Sort out power before you buy, not after the container is sitting in your yard.
A standard wall outlet will not run a working reefer. Confirm the exact voltage, phase, and frequency stamped on the unit, match it to what you can supply, and have a licensed electrician size the circuit and breaker. Start-up draw is higher than the running draw, so plan for the peak.
Grid three-phase
If your site already has three-phase service, you can often wire the unit directly. Best for a fixed, always-on installation.
Phase converter
A rotary phase converter turns your single-phase supply into three-phase where grid three-phase isn’t available at the site.
Generator (genset)
A diesel genset — clip-on or standalone — powers a reefer off-grid or on the move, e.g. for events, remote sites, or transport.
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Ways to buy
Three ways people buy a reefer
The same-looking container can be sold three very different ways. Which one is right depends entirely on whether — and how hard — you need it to run cold.
Working reefer
A tested unit that cools out of the box. This is what you want for active refrigeration or freezing — food, pharma, cold storage. Expect to confirm the machine’s condition and running hours.
Non-operating reefer (NOR)
A reefer whose machine is dead, removed, or simply not sold as working. It’s bought purely as a heavily insulated storage box — the cheapest way to get insulation, but it will not cool on its own.
One-trip / new
A unit that has shipped only once (or is brand new). Cleanest interior, newest machinery, longest service life — and the highest price. Worth it when reliability and appearance really matter.
Sizes & specs
Reefer sizes: 20ft and 40ft
Refrigerated containers come mainly in two lengths. Note that reefers give up a little interior room compared with a dry box the same size — the insulation and the raised T-bar floor take up space, so usable height and volume run lower. Figures below are typical; always confirm the exact numbers on the specific unit.
20ft refrigerated container
Standard height. The right pick for smaller cold rooms, tighter sites, and single-door setups — easier to place and move.
- Internal length~17 ft 8 in
- Internal width~7 ft 5 in
- Internal height~7 ft 5 in
- Capacity~1,000 cu ft
- Pallets (floor)~9–10
40ft refrigerated container
Almost always high cube (9 ft 6 in tall). The workhorse for bulk cold storage — roughly double the room of a 20ft for a lot more capacity.
- Internal length~37 ft 8 in
- Internal width~7 ft 5 in
- Internal height~8 ft 2 in
- Capacity~2,350 cu ft
- Pallets (floor)~20–21
Comparing lengths across all container types? Browse the full container size guide.
The heart of the unit
The machinery matters more than the box
Two reefers can look identical and be worlds apart, because the refrigeration unit is what you’re really buying. A few things carry most of the weight when you compare working units.
- Brand & serviceability. Carrier Transicold, Thermo King, Daikin and Star Cool dominate. Favor a brand your local techs can service and get parts for.
- Running hours. Think of these like engine hours on a used machine — fewer hours generally means more life left. Always ask for the reading.
- Refrigerant type. Older units often run R-134a or R-404A; newer units use lower-impact refrigerants. Confirm it holds a charge and isn’t leaking.
- PTI (Pre-Trip Inspection). The unit’s own automated self-test. A recent, clean PTI is a strong sign the machinery is healthy.
- Genset option. Need it mobile or off-grid? A clip-on or standalone genset lets the reefer run without a grid connection.
- Pull-down test. Ask to see it reach temperature and hold it. A unit that struggles to pull down is a red flag, whatever the hour reading says.
Before you buy
Used reefer inspection checklist
If you’re buying a used working reefer, walk through this before you commit. It’s the quickest way to separate a solid unit from an expensive headache — take it (or send it to whoever inspects on your behalf).
- Machine make & model — and whether parts and service are available near you.
- Running hours — ask for the current reading; lower is generally better.
- Pull-down demo — see it reach a set temperature and hold it steady.
- Recent PTI result — or ask the seller to run one.
- Refrigerant & charge — type, and no sign of leaks.
- Door gaskets & seals — cracked or flattened seals kill efficiency.
- Interior lining — stainless/aluminum intact, no rust-through, drains clear.
- T-bar floor — bars straight and unclogged so air can circulate.
- Insulation — no soft, sagging, or water-logged panels (or musty smell).
- Power match — the unit’s voltage/phase matches what you can supply.
- Structure — corner castings, CSC plate, and no dents that stop doors sealing.
- Delivery & access — reefers are heavy; confirm the site can take the truck.
What it costs
What drives the price of a refrigerated container
Reefers cost noticeably more than a standard container the same size — you’re paying for the machinery, not just the steel. Prices move with the market, so the real number comes from a local quote. These are the levers that push it up or down:
- Working vs NOR. A running unit costs well more than a non-operating one sold as insulated storage.
- Size. A 40ft high-cube unit costs more than a 20ft — more box, more machine capacity.
- Machine age & hours. Newer machinery with fewer running hours commands a premium.
- Condition grade. One-trip and near-new sit at the top; cargo-worthy used and NOR below.
- Brand. Widely serviceable machinery (Carrier, Thermo King) tends to hold value.
- Delivery & site access. Reefers are heavier than dry boxes; distance and a tight site raise freight.
- Power setup. Budget for a three-phase hookup, a phase converter, or a genset on top of the container.
- Availability near you. Local stock and how far a unit has to travel both affect the final figure.
Who buys them
What people use refrigerated containers for
Reefers do far more than ship frozen freight. If any of these sound like you, a refrigerated container is often the fastest way to add cold capacity without building a walk-in.
Restaurants & food service
Overflow cold storage during peak seasons and events.
Breweries & wineries
Temperature-stable storage for product and ingredients.
Florists & growers
Keep cut flowers and plants cool and fresh for longer.
Pharma & medical
Controlled cold storage where temperature really matters.
Cannabis
Climate-controlled space for curing and storage.
Grocery & farm
On-site cold storage for produce, dairy, and meat.
Events & festivals
Mobile cold storage, powered by a genset where needed.
Cold-storage overflow
Extra capacity for warehouses and distributors, fast.
Buy with confidence
Compare suppliers, not just containers
A great reefer from an unreliable seller is still a gamble. Every supplier in our network carries an independent ContainerMondo Score built from public reputation, verified business details, and track record — so you can weigh who you’re buying from, not only the price.
See how we score suppliers- Reputation gathered from across the web
- Verified business & inventory details
- Track record with real buyers
FAQs
Refrigerated container questions, answered
A refrigerated container (a “reefer”) has an integrated cooling unit that actively holds a set temperature. An insulated container has the same foam-lined walls but no machine, so it only slows how fast the temperature changes. If you need to reach and keep a target temperature, you need a reefer.
Usually not directly. Most working reefers run on three-phase power (commonly around 460 volts, 60 Hz in the U.S.), which a typical home or small shop doesn’t have. Options are a site with three-phase service, a rotary phase converter, or a diesel genset. Always match the unit’s exact electrical rating and have a licensed electrician confirm the hookup.
Most units hold a wide range from roughly deep-freeze up to chilled or mild climate control — think well below freezing up to around 60 °F, adjustable to a setpoint. Specialist “super-freezer” units go colder still. The exact range depends on the machine, so confirm it for the specific unit.
A NOR is a reefer whose refrigeration unit is dead, removed, or simply not sold as working. It’s bought as a heavily insulated storage box — the cheapest way to get insulation — but it will not cool on its own. If you only need to buffer temperature rather than actively control it, a NOR can be a smart budget choice.
It varies with size, whether it’s a working unit or a NOR, the machine’s age and hours, condition grade, and delivery. A working reefer costs meaningfully more than a standard container the same size. For a ballpark, try the cost estimator, then compare local quotes for exact pricing.
Ask for the running hours and a recent Pre-Trip Inspection (PTI) result, and see the unit pull down to a set temperature and hold it. Check the refrigerant holds a charge, the door seals aren’t cracked, and the interior and T-bar floor are sound. Our inspection checklist above walks through the full list.
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